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Furnace Pressure Switch Stuck Open: What It Means

Ray BennettBy Ray Bennett · Updated 2 October 2026 · 5 min read · Checked against the sources at the end
Furnace Pressure Switch Stuck Open: What It Means
Short answer

The pressure switch is not a part that goes wrong very often. It is the part that reports other things going wrong, because its whole job is to prove the draught fan is really moving air before the gas is allowed on. Stuck open nearly always means a blocked condensate drain, a bad hose, or snow over the pipes outside.

A pressure switch fault is a common reason a modern furnace will not light, and it is also one of the most misread. People order the switch, fit it, and the furnace does exactly the same thing.

That is because the switch is rarely the fault. It is a safety device whose only job is to prove the draught fan is genuinely pulling air before any gas is allowed. When it reports stuck open, it is usually telling the truth.

Before you start

What to carry: a torch, a screwdriver and a small bucket. Twenty minutes.

Gas or electric? This part only exists on fuel burning furnaces, because it is about proving the flue is drawing. An electric furnace has no flue and nothing like it.

Power off at the furnace switch before you open anything, and at the breaker if you are going to have your hands inside for more than a moment.

The one thing never to do to this part. Never jumper it, tape it closed or bypass it. It is suggested on forums constantly and it is one of the most dangerous pieces of advice in home heating. That switch exists to stop the gas lighting when the exhaust is not leaving the building, so defeating it lets a furnace burn with its flue blocked and put combustion gas into the house: what that smells like, and why it means leaving.

And a furnace that lights when you tap the switch is still faulty. Tapping proves the switch is sticking, it does not make the furnace safe to run.

What it actually does

IT DOES NOT START THE FURNACE, IT PERMITS IT The draught fan spins up and pulls air through the flue The little hose carries that suction to the switch The switch closes only if the suction is really there Now the gas is allowed on, and not one moment before
Four things in a row, and the switch is the third. It gives permission, it does not cause anything.

The sequence on every modern furnace is the same. The small draught fan starts first and pulls air through the heat exchanger and out of the flue. That pull creates a slight suction, which travels down a thin rubber hose to the pressure switch.

If the suction is there, the switch closes and the control board is allowed to move on to ignition. If it is not, nothing happens and you get a code.

So “stuck open” is the board saying the suction never arrived. The interesting question is why.

The five places to look

FIVE PLACES, IN THIS ORDER 1 2 3 4 5 1 The condensate drain and trap Water backed up into the collector box. 2 The little hose Cracked, kinked, off its port, or full of water. 3 The pipes outside Snow, leaves, a nest, or a screen iced over. 4 The draught fan Slow, seized, or its wheel packed with dust. 5 The switch itself, last of all
In order of how often each one turns out to be it. The switch itself is last for a reason.
Check 1

Start with the water, because it usually is

The condensate drain and trap. On a high efficiency furnace, the one with two white plastic pipes, the exhaust condenses into water that has to drain away. When the trap or the hose blocks, water backs up into the collector box, the draught cannot develop properly, and the switch opens. Goodman says its pressure switches are there to catch a blocked condensate drain as well as a blocked flue.

Take the trap off, tip it out, rinse it, and put it back. Take a photo first so it goes back the same way round: the trap and the drain, in detail.

The hose. A thin rubber tube from the inducer housing to the switch. Pull it off at both ends and look through it. Look for a crack, a kink, an end popped off or a plug of water, and replace a bad length of hose.

Then the air, inside and out

Check 2

The flue, the intake and the draught fan

The pipes outside. Go and look at them. On a high efficiency furnace there are two, usually white plastic, coming out of a wall. Snow drifted over them after the first storm of winter is a typical cause, and so are leaves, a wasp nest, a bird nest and a screen iced over. On an older furnace with a metal flue into a chimney, the same applies to the chimney.

The draught fan itself. Listen at the start of a cycle. It should spin up cleanly and sound steady. One that groans, hesitates, or sounds like it is struggling is not making the suction the switch wants, and the wheel inside them packs with dust exactly like a blower wheel does.

The inducer housing. A crack in the plastic housing, or a gasket that has gone hard, leaks away the suction before it reaches the hose.

Only now, the switch. They do fail, and the diaphragm inside can perish with age. It is a cheap part. It is simply not the first thing.

Reading what the furnace is telling you

Check 3

The code, and what the timing says

Count the flashes on the board through the little window and read them against the label inside your own furnace door, never a list from another brand.

It fails before the draught fan runs at all. That is not a switch stuck open. Goodman says a switch stuck closed stops the draught fan starting, and it has its own code. Otherwise go back to the beginning: the five free checks.

The draught fan runs, then everything stops. That is the picture on this page.

It runs and lights, then quits a few seconds later. Different fault, usually the flame sensor: what happens after ignition.

It works fine in mild weather and fails on cold mornings. Ice. Either the pipes outside or condensate freezing in a drain line that runs somewhere cold.

Questions people ask

I replaced the switch and it does the same thing.

Then the switch was right all along. Work through the drain, the hose and the pipes outside, because one of those is stopping the suction ever reaching it.

It started after the first snow.

Go outside and look at the two plastic pipes. Snow drifting across them, or the exhaust melting and refreezing round the end, blocks them and is the most seasonal fault on this site.

Can I suck on the hose to test it?

People do, and it does close the switch, which tells you the switch works. It tells you nothing about why the furnace could not do it, and there is exhaust residue in that hose.

Why does tapping it make the furnace start?

Because the contacts are sticking. That is a genuine switch fault, but it is the only version where the switch really is the problem, and it still wants replacing rather than tapping.

There is water dripping out of the furnace as well.

Then the drain side is almost certainly your answer, and the two symptoms are one fault: where that water comes from.

Is it safe to keep trying to start it?

Trying a couple of times is fine, and the board will not let the gas on until the switch closes anyway. What is not fine is anything that makes it start when the switch says no.

Sources: Goodman installation instructions IOG-2009E (*MSS9, *CSS9), Lennox installation instructions 507323-01 (ML180UH), Carrier 58SC0A/58SC1A installation, start-up, operating and service instructions (status code 31), ICP service and technical support manual 440 04 4401 01 (N9MSE), Resideo (Honeywell) S9200U1000 instructions 69-2075EF-09 and Rheem installation instructions 92-24161-124-12 (blocked drain shutoff, freezing drain lines)