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Cracked Heat Exchanger: How to Tell, and the Cost

Ray BennettBy Ray Bennett · Updated 2 October 2026 · 7 min read · General guidance, always check your own manual
Cracked Heat Exchanger: How to Tell, and the Cost
Short answer

The heat exchanger is the metal wall between the fire and the air you breathe, so a real crack is serious and a wrongly called one costs thousands. There are things you can see yourself, and there is a standard of proof you are entitled to ask for before anybody condemns your furnace.

Of everything that can go wrong with a furnace, this is the one where being told the truth matters most, in both directions.

A genuinely cracked heat exchanger can put exhaust into the air your house breathes. A furnace condemned on somebody’s hunch costs you a new furnace you did not need. Both happen.

Before you start

What to carry: a torch and a mirror. Twenty minutes, and none of it involves taking the furnace apart.

Gas or electric? Only a fuel burning furnace has one. An electric furnace has heating elements and no flame, no exhaust and no heat exchanger, so none of this page applies to it. Oil furnaces have one and fail the same way.

The one thing to fit first. A carbon monoxide alarm on every level of the home and outside the sleeping areas, which is where the CPSC says they go. They are cheap, and they are the only part of this that does not rely on anybody’s opinion.

Read this before you do anything else. If a carbon monoxide alarm has gone off, everybody leaves first. Out of the house, then call from outside, and do not go back in to open windows or to look at the furnace. Carbon monoxide has no smell and the first symptoms are the ones that stop you making good decisions.

A normal alarm is not a low reading. The CPSC says an ordinary alarm is designed to sound before carbon monoxide reaches life threatening levels. That is not the same as sounding at the first trace of it. Headaches, nausea or a heavy tiredness that lifts when you go out and comes back when you come home is worth acting on even with a silent alarm.

And never let anybody seal a crack. There are products sold for it. A heat exchanger works at temperatures nothing poured into it will survive, and it is the wall keeping exhaust out of your bedrooms.

What it actually is

ONE WALL, TWO SIDES up the flue the burners air from the house to your rooms a crack here Nothing crosses that wall Exhaust on the inside, the air you breathe on the outside, and one sheet of metal between. Which is why a crack is different It is not a heat leak. It is a hole between flue gas and the air going to your bedrooms, which is why a furnace gets condemned for it.
Fire and exhaust on the inside, the air from your house on the outside, and one metal wall between them. That wall is the whole safety of a gas furnace.

The burners fire into a set of metal passages. The exhaust travels through the inside of those passages and leaves up the flue, and nothing else is supposed to.

Your blower pushes house air over the outside of the same metal, which is where the heat comes from. The two never touch, and one wall is what keeps it that way.

So a crack is not a leak of heat. It is a hole between the exhaust and the air going to your bedrooms, and that is why it is treated the way it is.

The test you can do yourself, free

BEFORE THE BLOWER steady, and all pointing up This is right nothing is pushing them about WHEN THE BLOWER STARTS blower air they lean, lift or roll out This is the sign and it is worth a proper look
Watch the flames at the moment the blower starts. Steady is right. Flames that lift, roll out towards you or change colour are the classic sign.
Check 1

Watch the burners when the blower kicks in

The furnace lights, and the blower waits about half a minute before it starts: 25 seconds on Carrier’s 58SC0A, 30 on Goodman’s GMSS96 and Lennox’s SL280UHV. That gap is what makes this work.

Turn the thermostat up five degrees and stand where you can see the burner flames. On many furnaces there is a small sight window, and on others the burners are visible once the lower door is off with the power off.

Before the blower starts, the flames should be steady, mostly blue, and pointing the same way.

At the moment the blower starts, watch closely. Flames that suddenly lean hard, lift off the burner, turn yellow and lazy, or roll out towards you are telling you that blower air is getting somewhere it should not be.

What it does not prove. A steady flame is good news and not a clean bill of health, because plenty of cracks only open up once the metal is hot and expanded. Put the thermostat back where it was when you have seen enough.

The other signs, in the order they are worth anything

Check 2Free, twenty minutes

Look for the marks a failing exchanger leaves

Soot. Black powdery deposits around the burners or inside the cabinet. Clean combustion leaves none.

Rust flakes in the burner area, or rust where no water should be. On a standard furnace with a single metal flue up a chimney, the exchanger should stay dry. Flaking rust below it is worth a proper look.

An alarm that only sounds during heating. Especially one that goes off a few minutes into a cycle and settles once the furnace stops.

People feeling ill on a pattern. Better at work, worse at home, worse in the morning, better in spring.

What is not evidence. A furnace being old. A slightly high gas bill. A cracked looking mark on the outside of the cabinet, which is not the exchanger at all. And a smell, because the things people describe here are usually something else: what each furnace smell actually means.

The proof to ask for before you agree to anything

Check 3

Three questions, asked politely, before any quote

This is the part nobody tells homeowners. A furnace being condemned is a decision you are allowed to see the working for.

“Can you show me the crack?” Many technicians now carry a camera on a flexible cable. A crack is photographed, not felt. Ask to see the picture and where on the exchanger it is.

“What is the carbon monoxide reading, and where did you take it?” A combustion analyser gives a number in parts per million. A reading taken in the supply air, with the blower running, is the measurement that matters, and a clean furnace reads at or near zero there.

“Is this a known failure point on this model?” Some models have one, and a technician who knows it will say so plainly.

Then get a second opinion, from somebody not selling you the replacement. If the first answer was right, the second one agrees in twenty minutes. If it was not, you have just saved the price of a furnace.

Do not be talked out of the cold. A furnace switched off in January is a genuine problem, and that pressure is exactly why this gets decided badly. Space heaters and one cold night are cheaper than a wrong decision.

Why the part is often free and the job is not

Check 4

Work out whether to fix it or to replace the furnace

The part is usually under warranty. Most makers cover the heat exchanger for twenty years or for life, to the original owner, and some of that carries over. So the metal itself often costs nothing.

The labour is where the money goes. The furnace comes apart almost completely to change one, which is most of a day.

Which means the sum is simple. A new heat exchanger in a furnace that is eighteen years old buys you the same furnace, eighteen years old, with everything else in it the same age. The same money is a large part of a new one.

On a younger furnace with the warranty alive, repair usually wins. Over fifteen years old, ENERGY STAR says it may be time to talk to a contractor about a replacement.

And find out why it cracked. Most do it from years of overheating, which comes from restricted airflow: a filter left in too long, closed registers, undersized ducts. Fit a new furnace behind the same restriction and it will do the same thing: what a tripping limit switch was trying to tell you.

Questions people ask

Is it a myth that technicians invent these?

No, and it is not the rule either. Cracks are real and so are furnaces condemned without evidence. That is exactly why a photograph and a carbon monoxide number in the supply air are worth asking for rather than arguing about.

Can I keep using it until spring?

Not on a confirmed one. If it is only suspected, a low level monitor beside the furnace and a second opinion booked this week is a reasonable way to spend a few days, not a season.

What causes one?

Metal expanding and contracting for twenty years, and overheating speeds it up. Restricted airflow, a system that short cycles, and an oversized furnace all shorten its life: why a furnace that keeps stopping is wearing itself out.

My furnace has two of them.

A high efficiency condensing furnace has a secondary exchanger as well, which is made to have water in it. That one fails by corroding from the inside, usually from a blocked drain, and the tell is water where it should not be rather than a flame that moves.

Does a cracked exchanger always make carbon monoxide?

Not always, which is the awkward part. Combustion can stay clean and the crack still lets exhaust across on some cycles. It is a reason to take a confirmed crack seriously, not a reason to ignore a good reading.

The furnace runs fine and somebody still condemned it.

That is normal. A crack does not stop a furnace working, which is why it is found at a service rather than by breaking down. Ask for the photograph and the reading, then get the second opinion.